 This
is the twelfth in a continuing series of entries from the Voyages
of Samuel de Champlain, first published in 1613. To view Part I,
click here. For Champlain's
account of the discovery of the lake that bears his name, click
here...
Original
translation from the French by Charles Pomeroy Otis, Ph.D.
Republished by the Prince Society, Boston: 1878.
MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN
Volume II
1604-1610
CHAPTER XII.
DEPARTURE FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN TO FRANCE. MEETING RALLEAU AT
CAPE SABLE, WHICH CAUSED US TO TURN BACK.
On the 17th of the month, in accordance
with the resolution we had formed, we set out from the mouth of Port
Royal with two barques, one of eighteen tons, the other of seven or
eight, with the view of pursuing the voyage to Cape Breton or
Canseau. We anchored in the strait of Long Island,[191] where during
the night our cable broke, and we came near being lost, owing to the
violent tides which strike upon several rocky points in and about
this place. But, through the diligent exertions of all, we were
saved, and escaped once more.
On the 21st of the month there was a violent wind, which broke the
irons of our rudder between Long Island and Cape Fourchu, and
reduced us to such extremities that we were at a loss what to do.
For the fury of the sea did not permit us to land, since the
breakers ran mountain high along the coast, so that we resolved to
perish in the sea rather than to land, hoping that the wind and
tempest would abate, so that, with the wind astern, we might go
ashore on some sandy beach. As each one thought by himself what
might be done for our preservation, a sailor said that a quantity of
cordage attached to the stern of our barque, and dragging in the
water, might serve in some measure to steer our vessel. But this was
of no avail; and we saw that, unless God should aid us by other
means, this would not preserve us from shipwreck. As we were
thinking what could be done for our safety, Champdoré, who had been
again handcuffed, said to some of us that, if Pont Gravé desired it,
he would find means to steer our barque. This we reported to Pont
Gravé, who did not refuse this offer, and the rest of us still less.
He accordingly had his handcuffs taken off the second time, and at
once taking a rope, he cut it and fastened the rudder with it in
such a skilful manner that it would steer the ship as well as ever.
In this way, he made amends for the mistakes he had made leading to
the loss of the previous barque, and was discharged from his
accusation through our entreaties to Pont Gravé who, although
Somewhat reluctantly, acceded to it.
The same day we anchored near La Baye Courante, [192] two leagues
from Cape Fourchu, and there our barque was repaired. On the
23d of July, we proceeded near to Cape Sable.
On the 24th of the month, at two o'clock in the afternoon, we
perceived a shallop, near Cormorant Island, coming from Cape Sable.
Some thought it was savages going away from Cape Breton or the
Island of Canseau. Others said it might be shallops sent from
Canseau to get news of us. Finally, as we approached nearer, we saw
that they were Frenchmen, which delighted us greatly. When it had
almost reached us, we recognized Ralleau, the Secretary of Sieur de
Monts, which redoubled our joy. He informed us that Sieur de Monts
had despatched a vessel of a hundred and twenty tons, commanded by
Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come with fifty men to act as
Lieutenant-General, and live in the country; that he had landed at
Canseau, whence the above-mentioned vessel had gone out to sea, in
order, if possible, to find us, while he, meanwhile, was proceeding
along the coast in a shallop, in order to meet us in case we should
have set out, supposing we had departed from Port Royal, as was in
fact the case: in so doing, they acted very wisely. All this
intelligence caused us to turn back; and we arrived at Port Royal on
the 25th of the month, where we found the above-mentioned vessel and
Sieur de Poutrincourt, and were greatly delighted to see realized
what we had given up in despair. [193] He told us that his delay had
been caused by an accident which happened to the ship in leaving the
boom at Rochelle, where he had taken his departure, and that he had
been hindered by bad weather on his voyage. [194]
The next day, Sieur de Poutrincourt proceeded to set forth his views
as to what should be done; and, in accordance with the opinion of
all, he resolved to stay at Port Royal this year, inasmuch as no
discovery had been made since the departure of Sieur de Monts, and
the period of four months before winter was not long enough to
search out a site and construct another settlement, especially in a
large vessel, unlike a barque which draws little water, searches
everywhere, and finds places to one's mind for effecting
settlements. But he decided that, during this period, nothing more
should be done than to try to find some place better adapted for our
abode. [195]
Thus deciding, Sieur de Poutrincourt despatched at once some
laborers to work on the land in a spot which he deemed suitable, up
the river, a league and a half from the settlement of Port Royal,
and where we had thought of making our abode. Here he ordered wheat,
rye, hemp, and several other kinds of seeds to be sown, in order to
ascertain how they would flourish. [196]
On the 22d of August, a small barque was seen approaching our
settlement. It was that of Des Antons, of St. Malo, who had come
from Canseau, where his vessel was engaged in fishing, to inform us
that there were some vessels about Cape Breton engaged in the
fur-trade; and that, if we would send our ship, we might capture
them on the point of returning to France. It was determined to do so
as soon as some supplies, which were in the ship, could be unloaded.
[197]
This being done. Pont Gravé embarked, together with his companions,
who had wintered with him at Port Royal, excepting Champdoré and
Foulgeré de Vitré. I also stayed with De Poutrincourt, in order,
with God's help, to complete the map of the coasts and countries
which I had commenced. Every thing being put in order in the
settlement. Sieur de Poutrincourt ordered provisions to be taken on
board for our voyage along the coast of Florida.
On the 29th of August, we set out from Port Royal, as did also Pont
Gravé and Des Antons, who were bound for Cape Breton and Canseau, to
seize the vessels which were engaging in the fur-trade, as I have
before stated. After getting out to sea, we were obliged to put back
on account of bad weather. But the large vessel kept on her course,
and we soon lost sight of her.
ENDNOTES:
191. Petit Passage, leading into St. Mary's Bay.
192. _La Baye Courante_, the bay at the mouth of Argyl or Abuptic
River, sometimes called Lobster Bay.--_Vide Campbell's Yarmouth
County_. N.S., p. 13. The anchorage for the repair of the barque
near this bay, two leagues from Cape Fourchu, was probably near
Pinckney Point, or it may have been under the lee of one of the
Tusquet Islands.
193. Lescarbot, who with De Poutrincourt was in this vessel, the
"Jonas," gives a very elaborate account of their arrival and
reception at Port Royal. It seems that, at Canseau, Poutrincourt,
supposing that the colony at Port Royal, not receiving expected
succors, had possibly already embarked for France, as was in fact
the case, had despatched a small boat in charge of Ralleau to
reconnoitre the coast, with the hope of meeting them, if they had
already embarked. The "Jonas" passed them unobserved, perhaps while
they were repairing their barque at Baye Courante. As Ralleau did
not join the "Jonas" till after their arrival at Port Royal,
Poutrincourt did not hear of the departure of the colony till his
arrival. Champlain's dates do not agree with those of Lescarbot, and
the latter is probably correct. According to Lescarbot, Poutrincourt
arrived on the 27th, and Pont Gravé with Champlain on the 31st of
July. _Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, pp. 544, 547.
194. Lescarbot gives a graphic account of the accident which
happened to their vessel in the harbor of Rochelle, delaying them
more than a month: and the bad weather and the bad seamanship of
Captain Foulques, who commanded the "Jonas," which kept them at sea
more than two months and a half.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris.
1612, p. 523, _et seq._
195. Before leaving France, Poutrincourt had received instructions
from the patentee, De Monts to seek for a good harbor and more
genial climate for the colony farther south than Mallebarre, as he
was not satisfied either with St. Croix or Port Royal for a
permanent abode.--_Vide Lescarbot's His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612,
p. 552.
196. By reference to Champlain's drawing of Port Royal, it will be
seen that the place of this agricultural experiment was on the
southern side of Annapolis River, near the mouth of Alien River, and
on the identical soil where the village of Annapolis now stands.
197. It appears that this fur-trader was one Boyer, of Rouen, who
had been delivered from prison at Rochelle by Poutrincourt's lenity,
where he had been incarcerated probably for the same offence. They
did not succeed in capturing him at Canseau.--_Vide His. Nou.
France_, par Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 553.
This
is the conclusion of Chapter 12 of Voyages
Click here for Chapter 13
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